As it is just a speeded up video of me without any explanation to what I am doing, I thought I'd create this 'visual companion' so to speak, showing you step by step what I do. Please keep in mind, I am keeping this simple (and quite neutral) for video purposes, for stage I would probably go in a little harder with the layers and colours, but on my camera. lighter looks somewhat better.
Also, it is worth mentioning that this is just the way I do it, I am not saying this is how it should be done. I am not a make up artist, and I have played around with my own look and routine until I've landed on something I feel comfortable with and works for me!
So, with that said, onto the video!
I find it's not a necessity for me, but if you have thicker and darker brows you might want to try with more product, and sealing it.
I try to push the wax up and out, setting the hairs upwards and outwards, this helps to flatten them as much as possible. leaving me with a nice smooth area to apply make up to.
I also only cover 2/3 of my brow, that is the outer 2/3, leaving the inner 1/3 natural. When drawing on the brow, I like to start them where my natural brows are and arch them higher at the end, opening the surface of the brow bone. This is just a personal preference.
More about filling in the brows later.
Next up is foundation, I use Kryolan Dermacolor as I feel it covers very well without looking too caked, and their products last quite a long time. For highlighting and contouring I use this set refillable which I got from Charles Fox a while a go, and so far I have only bought one refill.
The great thing about this kit is that you can blend the colours to match the skin tone on the different areas of your face, which gives a more natural look than just one shade across your face. I use a larger pot of Dermacolor in D5 as my base colour, even if it is a little dark for my skin, and blend these in.
Quick tip: to make your products last longer, wet the sponge before use, not soaking wet but just damp. This prevents the sponge from soaking up too much product, and also helps with the application, giving you a smoother finish.
I apply a lighter shade to the bridge and tip of my nose and up onto the centre of my forehead, this will help shape my nose and face in the next steps. Make sure to work the product into the skin, use your finger if needed as the warmth will soften the product and blend it in better. I have fairly visible pores on and around my nose, so working the product in well helps conceal them.
Next, I use the same colour on the inner corner of my eyes and work it down and out in a triangular shape, as indicated with the brush handle. Make sure to work it out beyond the eye and into the hair line.
I also use a little of this on my chin, along the jaw line and on the upper lip, most of this will be blended in in the next step.
Then onto the base colour, which as mentioned, in my case is D5. This colour is a little on the darker side for me, and I bought it when I had a tan, but it works when blended with the palette colours.
I work this into the bare areas, and blend the edges where the two colours meet.
I also work the base colour down the neck and onto the chest, and as I often paint on a cleavage (which I didn't do in this video) I will re-use the light and dark colours to achieve the right effect. Maybe I'll make a separate video on this, leave a comment if that is something you'd like!
Onto the brow highlight, I use Ben Nye Clown White and an angle brush, and I do this before using any setting powder.
I've found that treating this as part of the foundation and powdering on top makes the white less white but still stand out. I usually go over the wax covered area and outward, as seen in the images, and then blend it in with the sponge I used for the foundation, and then go in and draw on the eyebrows.
Some people prefer to do this the other way around, but again, personal preference!
How much of an arch you create is up to you, I personally don't like the "eyebrows in the middle of the forehead" look, nor do I like those hugely exaggerated semi-circular eyebrow shapes you sometimes see. I prefer the brows to look like real brows! Haha!
Ok, the time has come to powder it all down. I will use any cheap translucent powder, this one is from Collection 2000.
Now there seems to be varying techniques on powdering. I prefer to tip a little bit into the lid of the powder, and using a solid powder puff, I dip it into the lid, pressing the powder into the edge of it, and setting it directly onto the clown white on the brow bone.
I then place the rest of the powder onto my face, neck and chest, patting it down, no rubbing or sweeping motions. Now I go over with a big fluffy brush or a kabuki brush and kind of buff the powder in, and sweep away the excess.
Having noticed that translucent powder, even though it's supposed to be invisible, becomes very visible in flash photography, so I do this to eliminate that white glow in photos, and also, less is actually more when it comes to powder!
Now onto the brows. I use a pencil, some people prefer a brush and eye shadow, I sometimes use this in addition to the pencil to add depth and colour, it's up to you. For the purpose of this video I only used the pencil. It's from Rimmel and comes with a brush/comb on the lid. It is a medium brown, as I have fair skin and a blonde wig I feel that black would be too harsh, even the darker browns are too dark.
Now, I mentioned earlier that I cover only the outer 2/3 of my brows, leaving the inner 1/3. This gives the brows a more realistic look while still adding brow bone surface, and leaves a little hair in the brow.
I prefer this myself, it might not be to your taste.
Now and again, I add a touch of red/burgundy to the inner bit of the brow as the wig I use now has burgundy in it, but this isn't always.
After all, you want to be able to move your brows and "express yourself!"
Ok, so we are moving on to the eyes, and as I say in my video, this is my current go-to look, it is easy to do, doesn't have to be that neat as long as it's well blended, and looks good with most outfits too!
I use a basic black kohl eye liner as a base, you can use a primer if you wish, but I find that the liner does the trick well enough.
Fill in the lid and bring up above the crease. This really doesn't need to be very neat, as next I use a brush to smooth it out and blend upwards above the crease. I then re-apply kohl to the lid to make sure it is black enough.
Next, set with eye shadow, in this case I used a Barry M Dazzle Dust in Petrol, which has a green-ish shimmer to it. I press this onto the lid with the same brush, making sure it coats the black, and then blend it up and out. I also run the kohl under the eye and apply the same Dazzle Dust, halfway under the eye.
These Barry M products have a lot of fall-out so apply with care or use shields.
I then take the Clown White and the same brush used on the brow bone, and create a small triangular shape in the inner corner of my eyes. This opens the eye, as well as helps disguise the more masculine features of my face. I often press a bit of iridescent glitter onto the white, just because I like it!
Moving on to a liquid liner, this one is from MUA, I line the top lid, and starting under the white triangle I draw a straight line, joining up with the kohl under the middle of the eye.
Don't forget to replenish your fluids!
Apply Mascara and lashes as normal. I use lashes from a set I bought on eBay, 10 pairs of lashes for £2.99, these aren't especially long or dramatic, they just add a little fullness.
Blush and a touch of contour helps, nothing special there aside from the fact that I use my eye shadow palette as blush!
I use shades of pink/red for colour and brown/purple for depth, and I also run a little under my jawline to define and contour.
A current favourite is the ombre lip, where the lips are darker in the corners and gradually get lighter in the middle.
I use a red Barry M lip liner all over my lips, extending outside the natural line of the lip to create a fuller look. Then, with a darker lipstick (also Barry M) and a lip brush, I darken the corners of the lips gently, creating a two-tone effect. I also use eye shadows for this, more often than not, shades of brown or purple/plum.
You can dab a touch of clown white in the centre of the lips to highlight as well.
Lip gloss finishes off the fuller looking lips.
Finally, I put my wig on, style it a little and spray it to hold, and I am good to go! My current wig is from Sepia, the Jewel collection, in platinum blonde and burgundy. I found it in New York last year, and I love it. I've since found it online and I now have three of them. For me, I like the fact that it has a fringe/bangs as my forehead is large and masculine, and this helps soften the face.
Kryolan Eyebrow Wax (usually followed by sealer, but not here)
Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Palette for highlight and contour
Kryolan Dermacolor pot, col D5
Ben Nye Clown White for brow highlight and inner eye corner
Collection 2000 translucent powder
Rimmel Brow Pencil in Brown
Barry M Black Kohl Eyeliner
Barry M Dazzle Dust in 98 Petrol Black
MUA Extreme Felt Tip Eyeliner in Black
MUA Extreme Mascara in Black
False lashes from a set of 10 pairs
Generic 88 Palette shades of pink/purple as blusher
Barry M Lipliner in col 3 (?)
Barry M Lipstick in col 156 with a touch of brown eyeshadow on lip brush
Ben Nye Clown White as lip highlight
Miss Sporty Hollywood lipgloss in 250 Las Palmas Avenue
Collection 2000 Bronzer
Wig by Sepia, Jewel in Blonde613/Burgundy.
Hope you enjoy, thanks for watching!